This is a produce and spice-driven variation on a Texas-style barbecue sauce featuring a treasured California summer crop. The zesty-sweet flavor of stone fruit brings dimension to the sauce, adding succulence and richness of flavor. Our Oaktown Sweet Heat BBQ Rub creates a subtle burn, and the aromatics in the blend, like lemongrass and amchoor, play a complementary role to the fruit.

I usually make a big batch of this sauce during the dizzying heights of stone fruit season and spread the wealth at family cookouts. Natural pairings are pork belly, chicken thighs, and — for veg friends — grilled eggplant. Lightly brush or baste your protein with sauce to build flavor during the cooking process rather than slathering it on at the end.

For economical eaters, consider this recipe a savory way to use up that end-of-season fruit: the bruised, overripe kind that people invariably make into jam because they don't know what else to do with it. Freeze a container of sauce and bust it out when you need a little warmth during the cold winter months. (I like it baked into tofu, served on a bed of garlicky collard greens).

Note: If you can't find piloncillo, you can substitute dark brown sugar.